tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-75230600374921861042011-11-27T16:06:15.884-08:00Life and times of a yanqui in Buenos Aires.Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.comBlogger631100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-32959517417191677672010-06-10T00:40:00.000-07:002010-06-11T02:55:23.506-07:00

good photos by Aaron Firestein, ojophotos.comI'm writing this to you from California, where I've stopped over before heading home to New York City. This is my last blog about Buenos Aires.When I talk about the past three years I'm smiling and earnest, I'm in love with the city and its people and it is so hard to leave it behind. I hope I've been able to spread some of its magic, and that

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-51626895455630053192010-05-15T00:23:00.001-07:002010-05-15T22:49:01.108-07:00

It's my last weekend in Buenos Aires and tonight I went to see one of my favorite bands here, garage comics Los Peyotes. They mix Peruvian chicha and Rosario-area cumbia with 60s dirty rock. Songs include hooks like "cure my scar" and "smoking is bad for you, you're going to die." Both of which sound cooler in Spanish. They played a party at Niceto, Nave Jungla, that was this notorious 90s

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-91504694730159046422010-05-05T21:09:00.000-07:002010-05-15T12:04:42.353-07:00

Pipa is a little surf town in Northeastern Brazil, about an hour from Natal. I stayed with friends at their house and met some interesting characters pictured here.

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-71206724557196464872010-03-22T19:32:00.000-07:002010-04-19T15:07:58.479-07:00

Brazil is a powerful force. There can be no more attractive beach idea than that of Northern Brazil, land of legendary music and white sand, where beautiful brown people dance in the sun, shaking impressive tushes all over the place.That's the idea anyway. These photos are of Buzios, a beach peninsula an hour + outside of Rio de Janeiro. I was there a year ago during carnaval with an Argentine

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-17952999034287491182010-03-09T14:29:00.000-08:002010-03-15T06:36:19.767-07:00

You know you're starting to do alright on the job when you have no time to enjoy what a few months ago was big news. And what is now regular biz. March brought new freelance work, visits from old friends, and a trip to Brazil on the horizon.Lately I've fallen into a few time traps. You know how there's the thing you have to get taken care of that eats up your week? My February consisted

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-55962820954194953192010-01-26T13:13:00.000-08:002010-02-07T21:37:09.598-08:00

Like the word barbecue, asado means both meat and the act of grilling it, which usually becomes an all-out party. Back in Buenos Aires there were no less than 3 asados in the first 3 days of my return, all with meat as lovely as the friends who grilled it. It's good to be home.Caught up with an old friend from elementary school in LA, Bret, who happened to have been living here the past couple

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-67178391908946593022010-01-07T23:46:00.000-08:002010-02-10T01:10:05.448-08:00

Studying economics during a global financial meltdown in Europe made me look at New York City differently. It's a city with incredible wealth, even in a depression. It's more vibrant and free than its Euro counterparts. Most importantly, it's the city where some of my favorite people live.I spent Christmas between Manhattan and the South Bronx, visiting Erika and Manny at their house with kids

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-4221501960054172602009-12-10T10:17:00.000-08:002009-12-14T14:35:28.904-08:00

Europe has those fast trains, budget flights and free bikes in the big cities. It has fancy eats and metrosexual men, the thinnest ladies and the most polite children. Europe has a declining population and accelerating immigration. And this past month it hosted the most foreign of elements - a couple of senior Hymans.Lendog and Harlene arrived in Rome after a bumpy flight, ready to take on

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-4833084084869351682009-11-02T16:43:00.000-08:002009-11-03T02:46:43.751-08:00

Halloween in Bologna is surprisingly festive. The setting accommodates with winding medieval passageways laid in cobblestones. College students in vampire and zombie makeup pack bars and clubs in the town center Saturday night. I met a friend studying at Johns Hopkins' campus here and we biked through the city center to meet my boyfriend the Italian bluesman. The three of us went to a cafe where

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-57825303292808903162009-09-19T06:46:00.000-07:002009-09-19T10:32:28.751-07:00

The word for food in Italian is cibo, pronounced cheebo. Say it, "cheeboh," and you get the feel for what it's all about. There's a swallow, followed by an instant smile, then, with the aftertaste, an oh. Oh my.The products themselves are why it's so delicious here - the cheese and produce and the right amount of seasoning in every wicked pizza slice. Do those products not travel well, when

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-1228501452319515382009-09-05T04:20:00.000-07:002009-09-19T11:21:10.135-07:00

NYC is still the best city in the world and it's even better with a dash of Buenos Aires. My sister and Ash picked me up at JFK in an SUV they'd just bought for a trip across the US to their new home in Oakland, CA. We went straight to Nublu in the LES to play with Mataplantas, Loisaida style. It was amazing (and frightening) to play guitar and sing new songs at one of my favorite

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-39845025200796335882009-08-15T12:49:00.000-07:002009-09-19T10:36:49.022-07:00

Next week I'll be in New York City playing shows with Buenos Aires' Mataplantas.It's the band's first trip to the US - I was heading to NYC anyway and ended up booker and tour manager for my favorite BA band. We get to town next Sunday and play Nublu right off. Come listen to Red Eve with DJ Joro Boro and Argentinian band Mataplantas, "Plant Killers."http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7NaK7QXR00I'm

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-67521167324519667612009-06-25T11:17:00.000-07:002009-07-15T13:27:52.953-07:00

Lately, I've spent weekends in the countryside surrounding Buenos Aires getting to know gauchos, horses, polo instructors, and smaller towns and cities. I am writing about them at the moment and wanted to share with you. Highlights of the trips include:1) A mini Notre Dame just outside BA in a town that is like the 50s movie "Carousel" with a bit of Europe and Mexico blended together. 2)

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-26736023927046046162009-06-04T18:09:00.001-07:002009-06-25T11:14:03.901-07:00

It took me two years but I'm finally finding out the other side of the story here in Buenos Aires. There's always another side, right? The sour to the sweet and the explanations as to, "But why is it like that?"I've spent the past 6 weeks traveling weekends as a contributing writer for Perfect Places in Argentina and Uruguay. And I've spent week nights for the past 2 months at the Universita

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-36354039625960563702009-04-02T18:00:00.000-07:002009-04-02T22:46:39.905-07:00

Visits from friends and family gave a chance to share this city during our summer.

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-5802458256403433952009-04-02T17:24:00.000-07:002009-04-03T00:24:54.052-07:00

Mendoza is the wine center of Argentina, located at the foot of the Andes mountains, with a sunny, crisp climate not unlike Northern California. Valparaiso is the colorful French settlement in Chile that boasts a dense array of street art and old funiculars, ascenosores (elevators) that get people up the hills to their brightly painted houses.Mendoza is the cleanest city in Argentina and there

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-36455167687691530482009-03-10T19:40:00.000-07:002009-03-24T13:10:05.179-07:00

I started a grad program yesterday, in international affairs with a focus on relations between the EU and the Mercosur. Tonight was the first econ class and we talked about growth, mostly Argentina's history which has been the story of a progressively richer nation hitting many economic walls. Today it is a country that could have been, that still hopes to become fully franchised, always looking

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-19303049435114055502009-03-04T07:02:00.000-08:002009-03-10T20:13:52.772-07:00

Rio de Janeiro has a reputation for:a) danger and mayhemb) Sambac) CarnavalArgentine Virna and myself spent the first three days of Carnaval in Rio, before heading to the beach at Buzios. We saw the famous city through the lens of the biggest single party in the world and it was high energy. Urban jungle was juxtaposed against nature's jungle. Dramatic cliffs jutted up through a neighborhood

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-58709748727716116692008-12-24T00:30:00.000-08:002009-01-06T07:28:39.849-08:00

I’m writing this at midnight, Xmas Eve – just rode my bike home from work. Opening the door to my building I half jump from a firecracker set off in the street. The neighborhood is noisy with cherry bombs, honking horns, and cumbia villera playing constantly. I’m sitting here in a hundred-year old house at a big glass desk and widescreen monitor with the doors wide open onto the terrace

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-30295803034846180332008-11-06T09:24:00.000-08:002008-11-07T23:36:00.746-08:00

A few blocks from Argentina's most notorious futbol stadium, la cancha de Boca Juniors, lies my new home. On the borders of San Telmo, La Boca, and Barracas, an old, worn out house was made over by a few local handymen, friends, and me. We got it into working order in two weeks time, so I could move in and rent out the other two rooms before heading too NYC for a visit. Somehow, it all worked

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-57912863169495987672008-10-09T15:39:00.000-07:002008-10-09T18:44:14.524-07:00

This week the Latin Alternative Music Conference reared its lovely head in my hood San Telmo, where three nights of showcases and two days of music industry panels brought artists and people in the biz to embrace Argentina into its pan-Latin fold. I caught an interesting discussion on publishing where the Chilean version of BMI or ASCAP talked about supporting artists in sort of Che

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-5395071673103589262008-10-08T10:18:00.000-07:002008-10-15T18:50:13.373-07:00

Today I went to the U.S. embassy to cast my vote for president. It was a large party from 9am to 12pm that involved lines, food, and confusion. McDonalds and Starbucks had tables, a band played, there were news cameras and members of study abroad programs.Figuring out how to vote was quite a challenge, though the event was well staffed and the set up facilitated voting and even last minute

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-61352624584050074952008-09-17T14:10:00.001-07:002008-10-08T12:17:14.495-07:00

Some days you just focus on breathing through it. Overload of work, people, city, whatever it is bearing down, your breath has that feeling at the end like you just ran upstairs too fast. I’ve hung out with New Yorkers a lot this month and loved hearing their fresh take on this city. Similar perspectives all around on what's great and what lacks in Buenos Aires. One comment stuck with me, the

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-73006581834622967452008-08-30T17:26:00.001-07:002008-10-15T18:16:19.228-07:00

Apartment hunting in Buenos Aires isn't too difficult, it's certainly cheaper if you do it in Spanish. Craigslist spots are tourist-centric so not that affordable. Classified ads in the Argentine papers have more affordable rates but with San Telmo undergoing gentrification and intense inflation, rising prices are brutal. So much money to be made on purchasing apts and re-selling. Wishing I

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-9733938005096915152008-07-24T11:59:00.000-07:002008-10-15T18:20:22.339-07:00

Two weeks in LA in the sun is never a bad thing and I'm back in the winter less pale and excited about the dope article that's in the current issue of Urb in The States. It was massive to write and fun to get to see some more of this city where I live and to get inside a fresh music movement I'm liking from the dance floor. The article lives online too, Synths of Resistance: Argentina's Digital

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-58052055439555087142008-06-28T15:40:00.000-07:002008-07-22T10:56:06.870-07:00

Elevator music in the Buenos Aires supermarket and I remind myself there's more to South America than the one-block radius where I spend most of my time. "And I keep wonderin' who's holding Donna now" fills the produce aisles and the aisles of wine priced at $3. I wonder which cut of steak, out of the 50 plus offered, would be make the best companion for a "guiso de lentegas," Argentina's winter

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-39089200673106308702008-05-07T15:39:00.000-07:002008-05-07T17:10:48.160-07:00

The breeze comes in crispy most days here now in the city of good airs. The sun is a joy and the wind is welcome, especially so this past month when rolling clouds of smoke covered the entire city in a fog and a stink.The smell woke me up in the middle of the night as it seeped in through the French doors of the balcony off our bedroom. It wouldn't leave and got into every crevice of the

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-8950710284133372012008-03-06T08:55:00.000-08:002008-03-07T11:07:25.463-08:00

The South American summer is coming to an end and I'd like to share some photos and stories with you. I'm an illegal alien, but officially I'm a tourist. To maintain tourist status, every three months, I have to leave Argentina and get my passport stamped. Most people in my situation take the ferry to Uruguay for the day and come back in the evening. The trip is an hour each way. Max found a

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-52640965816529865262008-02-07T12:24:00.000-08:002008-10-15T18:23:16.152-07:00

Can't get enough of those South American power to the people via technology news stories. An email blast from NYC's Mean Red hipped me to this one. It's the continuation to where John Perkin's Confessions of an Economic Hit Man left off, with strategies to use global techniques to fight back against corporate global domination. In Ecuador the Shuar tribe is getting loked to fight off the oil

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-90136682439755104062008-02-06T14:58:00.001-08:002008-02-06T15:15:39.539-08:00

Zizek happens Wednesdays and has been on hiatus for the past month and a half and tonight it is a brand new party. Zizek was named after a well-known Slovenian philosopher, Slavoj Zizek, who married an Argentine lingerie model. The party includes live cumbia and South American rap acts along with resident deejays and global guests like Diplo. Villa Diamante is a resident, Zurita makes

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-3187286322845583192008-02-05T09:19:00.000-08:002008-10-15T18:24:23.760-07:00

Hillary, please.If America was so ready for real change, as Obama says, it would have done something to stop all the criminal activity of the past eight years while we were as one nation, under oil. Of course I like him myself and would like to see change. But I don't think he can bring about change with inspiring speeches. I don't see him as ready to fight the bad guys properly and they're

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-39086391263127924132008-01-30T18:35:00.000-08:002008-01-30T20:45:38.126-08:00

You're probably wondering if there are any Latinos in this Latin American country (see previous entry, Buenos Aires is Italian for Barcelona). Since a Latino identifies with being of mixed race and being from Latin America, Argentines could technically qualify. Except that many are not of mixed race and that those who are may not claim to be. Basically, in order to identify with the name of an

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-8135604663006893362007-12-29T07:39:00.000-08:002007-12-29T13:08:36.695-08:00

Wishing you a Happy New Year. 2007 brought big changes, personally, like a new country. If you'd told me last NYE that 2007 would have me changing careers, countries, and living with a boyfriend, well, it would have been a lot to take in. A new year is no joke - anything can take place. 2007 took out a generation of my family with the passing of grandma, Sylvia Alden. It brought news that one

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-62986003266080780072007-12-27T07:47:00.001-08:002007-12-27T08:18:53.142-08:00

This is an instructional video on time management in the blogosphere - feeds. For those who haven't started ordering in yet, and still haul tush to the blog mall - dealing with traffic and looking for a parking space, this video will teach you how to bring it all home so you never, ever, never leave your screen. Ever. I thought I was all smart, getting rid of cable, putting the TV up in the

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-58929360998022763792007-12-23T10:37:00.000-08:002008-01-30T18:32:41.743-08:00

This city has a disproportionate amount of Barcelona. For a place so far from Western Europe, it's got a lot of Catalan and Basque - as well as Napeolitan, Calabrian, and French bistro. If you've been to Barcelona you know what I mean - it's not exactly Spanish, it's got a Boho-edge-of-Europe, port-city feel to it. So does Buenos Aires, and the two cities seem to be connected. What's popular

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-80653422153503003542007-12-22T12:16:00.002-08:002007-12-27T08:23:36.428-08:00

Writing works for me because I talk so much. I can't help it, always have been a big mouth. And the thing about talking so much is it makes demands on the listener. If you don't listen, you're rejecting the speaker. But with writing, I can talk through the keyboard or pen and then the reader decides to listen on his/her terms - when, how long, where. It's a more considerate form of

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-6505194360052935332007-12-01T18:55:00.000-08:002007-12-18T12:37:49.978-08:00

La Mona Jimenez is to Argentine cumbia what James Brown is to funk - so they say. Wednesday night I went to Luna Park for the first time(where Evita is fabled to have met Juan Peron) and witnessed the man, the myth, in action. Luna Park is a stadium venue and it was full of sweaty folks dancing, jumping and yelling for La Mona. La Mona is a man in his fifties who struts his way across the

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-36282685418239336542007-11-28T10:08:00.000-08:002007-12-01T18:49:28.103-08:00

It's a beautiful sunny day in old town, Buenos Aires where we now live. Max calls San Telmo the "real Argentina." Since we're a couple blocks away from the plaza that's the touristy part even, our neighborhood feels pretty legit. So far I've found some empanada spots, my favorite local graff artist (www.elodio.tk), and a gorgeous venue to dance or watch Tango with live bands (looks like an old

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-42511049727707858802007-10-24T05:32:00.000-07:002007-10-24T05:37:40.130-07:00

Okay, this has little to do with Buenos Aires but it's mad contagious - and it's Chilean, not too far off. Straight out of Santiago is an artist I know from NYC. Sebastian paints on skateboards and apparantly makes sick music. His band is Los Mono and Kanye West is blogging about them. It's a small blog world.

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-86416184831082481282007-10-20T21:37:00.000-07:002007-10-20T21:42:12.806-07:00

We found some great apartments - one was here.We'll lock down our new home this next week and I'll let you know what happens. San Telmo is the old city with cobblestones and antique shops.

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-20756209620597846472007-10-16T00:27:00.000-07:002007-12-09T14:46:18.536-08:00

I may be catching up on the sleep I've missed my entire life. Is it normal to sleep so much when you are relatively happy? This month I don't have any nightlife crowd shots or smiling, beverage-in-hand pics. Besides sleep and watching the Hallmark channel in Buenos Aires, I've hung out in family settings with kids and ate large meals and relaxed a lot on couches. I'm thinking this is what

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-66070024564837326292007-09-09T16:59:00.000-07:002007-12-04T12:44:37.454-08:00

It's the strangest thing in the world to go from single to coupled. I don't mean, "Ooh, it's so novel to hold hands walking down the street." I mean, live with, clean up with, go out with, talk about money problems with, go to sleep and wake up with another person. I've never done it - not even close. I have to tell you, it's not as bad as people make it out to be. So far (which granted is

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-19413020685195305932007-09-03T08:57:00.000-07:002007-09-03T09:21:19.151-07:00

What I'm doing mostly. Found a teaching job and hunting for more writing work. What Kasha's doing mostly (besides eating - la gordita!).Redheadphone made it into the LES Crown Point Festival (music/film/theater) and is invited to play the ING NYC Marathon's Central Park stage. Those events, coupled with the fact that there's still a bunch of stuff leftover from my apt that I need to get out

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-63852832954317638952007-09-01T07:40:00.000-07:002007-09-01T07:59:19.355-07:00

This site:http://argentinastravel.com/destinations/top-10-destinations/has some great info on this country. This colorful street is La Boca here in Buenos Aires. These are all spots outside BsAs that I haven't been to yet since I haven't seen much outside the city. Visit and let's go see some waterfalls and stuff.

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-52286247787762363172007-08-26T17:13:00.000-07:002007-08-29T06:32:16.628-07:00

On Monday, the 21st I said goodbye to my favorite newyorkers in a brazilian spot on Avenue C. I drank coco punch, we listened to live Bossa Nova, I looked around at all the great peeps I got to know in NYC, shed a tear, and went home to 6th St for the last time. Next day was hectic, finishing up packing (thank you Carolina, Youna, and Erika!) and then Carolina dropped off Kasha Knish and I at

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-90387431089830364492007-05-30T19:46:00.000-07:002008-09-17T14:08:41.795-07:00

I have one week left and I haven't been out of Buenos Aires except on short local trips. The thing I've done most here is see live music. It's a great town for tango, rock, and cumbia. A week ago I saw the band to rival Gogol Bordello on musical, spectacle, and political levels. Las Manos de Filippi played in an old tango theater in Avellaneda, an area that has seen some political turmoil in

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-78086194577810192332007-05-26T10:06:00.000-07:002007-05-30T11:33:24.659-07:00

Would you give up your routine for adventure? Alright, that's an easy one. Would you leave your comfort zone for "true love?" Also not a tuffy, okay, here goes: Would you move to a far away country where you'll always be a foreigner, leave all your friends and family, any semblance of a career, a city you adore, semi-equal gender status, and most of your favorite foods, to live in the third

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-27492822300407348302007-05-26T09:12:00.000-07:002007-05-28T05:13:04.095-07:00

Paper Alec came to me by mail from Virginia. He's a "paper person" from my cousin's son's 6th grade class in Reston, a suburb of Washington DC. He has been all over Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood - seen quite a lot of Buenos Aires and even made it across the border to Uruguay by ferry. He's a redheaded paper child. Tracy - la chica de Brooklyn, Alec, and I had fun documenting his

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-82055296131079338522007-05-02T17:18:00.000-07:002007-05-05T19:46:37.291-07:00

Who would have thought that Tango would be the sexiest dancing I'd ever seen? This is no "nobody puts baby in the corner" moment. This is what the swing craze could have been minus the gymnastics and with a little respect for the intimate moments. Slow, close, and nostalgic, Tango is what you wish for when you look at black and white photos of Paris or NYC. Old movie kisses and Billy Holiday

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-46490435235310127832007-04-25T12:42:00.000-07:002007-05-05T19:48:17.475-07:00

Thursday night was Hip Hop BsAs en vivo. Breakdance battle, big club, cyphers, and booming systems. BsAs is certainly not known for its hip hop scene but, like the rest of the world, there's a pocket of kids who dream of Biggie and Tupac, breathe sneaker culture, and go to the hair salon to transform their head into a semblance of dread locks. An old friend was in town and in our shared

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-26227221206900137882007-04-24T17:21:00.000-07:002007-04-25T12:28:52.989-07:00

"What's your sign?" is a question I hear outside of bar banter here in Buenos Aires. Cabbies, shopgirls, teachers, and hardware store clerks want to read me via astrology. They even want to know rising signs, and I have to wonder if I've wandered into an alternate reality constructed by my mother. Argentines are not very religious. True, the churches are well attended on Sundays and were

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-47589686249768690122007-04-21T15:51:00.000-07:002007-04-21T18:31:47.933-07:00

Tuesday night the city flooded. The rain crashed down for hours and the sky broke apart in wave after wave of lightening bolts and sonic boom. The city cracked - the subte (subway) stopped working and the roads became creeks with hydroplaning cars and wading pedestrians. There'd been a flood in a neighboring city that required the evacuation of 400,000 residents. With visions of Katrina in my

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-85430947188802685812007-04-17T12:42:00.000-07:002007-04-17T14:58:15.259-07:00

Argentine talks shows are amazing. I just watched four overweight teenage girls withstand a panel of shrinks and nutritionists and a studio audience scrutinize them physically and mentally. One girl's thin sister was brought up to the stage out of the audience. The hostess went on about how pretty she was and how much alike they looked and the heavy sister started crying. The camera panned in

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-42519802606249653282007-04-15T22:44:00.000-07:002007-04-21T15:47:40.282-07:00

This past week was about dinners with locals and getting the jokes in Argentine Spanish. It was impressive boliches (nightclubs) and meeting boys. Romantic intros in gorgeous spaces and moto rides at sunrise and one packed nightclub after another that go on into the morning.Ciudad Konex is the name of what’s known here as a cultural center. It’s not a YMCA. It’s a neighborhood nightclub –

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-49878152258024618892007-04-15T22:41:00.000-07:002007-08-28T10:36:48.246-07:00

Another night at Harrods, different bands, and a different boy. Lately, I have a date here almost every day. And each time I go out I see someone I want to ditch my date for. It's a sickness - there are just too many good ones here. Granted, the majority are just regular males, nothing spectacular. But the good ones are good - and so much more accessible. There's a 1950's niavete here;

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-46388870026911245492007-04-13T01:17:00.000-07:002007-04-15T22:41:00.034-07:00

Winter is almost here but the mosquitos haven't noticed. There's some kind of infestation in BsAs. I want to tell you so much but I can't today - it'll have to wait. Live music and new friends and motorcycle tours of the city have me off line and taking it all in. Is it me, or is the male to female ratio the opposite of NYC? There they are, on the subway looking across the car, on the street

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-61298159736281389602007-04-05T20:16:00.000-07:002007-04-15T20:19:08.469-07:00

Jabad Soho had a passover seder and I sang Dayenu with the cutest Argentine boy I've met so far. Tomer is 5 and he reads Spanish at about the same pace as I do. His mother is Argentine and his father is Israeli and "Where is the adult version of him?" I asked his mom. She said the BsAs jewish community is hard to penetrate and recommended I go to the Macabi club. That sounds suspiciously like

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-87028173555602278732007-04-01T10:04:00.000-07:002007-04-15T23:08:09.428-07:00

Everything in Argentine slang has to do with male anatomy and cows. Analogies using cow anatomy praise a woman's figure and more than curse words, phrases that use male body parts have become quotidien mantras. A grandmother was scolding two men on the street yesterday for being scared of a stray dog and threatening it with a rolled up newspaper raised to swat it. "Que estan haciendo, es solo

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-43295334480180166092007-03-27T22:14:00.000-07:002010-07-31T22:55:16.779-07:00

There's a thunderstorm going on with big rods of lightening - serious business. It's still a perfect temperature - it never seems to deviate from 70 something here. It's been raining for most of four days. I've been sick for three. Course, I went out to stuff anyway. Some days are lucky and some days are a bit of a loss. People here are so averse to the US I keep considering saying I'm

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-53905281882551734462007-03-18T06:00:00.000-07:002007-04-15T19:59:58.305-07:00

The sun is rising over the buildings in Parlermo Viejo, Buenos Aires and I've left the house in the old factory district. Juan was the taxi driver who helped me move from the pretty house in Barrio Barracas to a hostel here downtown. I missed the St. Patrick's Day parties - I couldn't wait any longer to move downtown. I'm so happy I did. There's a wall of windows to my left. I'm up on the

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-46454602596282518302007-03-17T10:09:00.000-07:002010-02-08T18:39:53.820-08:00

I don't have pictures for you. Of the architecture, of the tango dancers on the boardwalk, and of the incredible steak. I wish I could blog the smell of the asado (bbq) and the sound of the wind blowing through the old hotel in the dunes with the stray dogs howling across town at each other under the moon. Here, strangers you talk to are kinder and warmer than any stranger you've met.

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-80088163337609907612007-03-17T07:49:00.001-07:002007-08-29T04:36:33.494-07:00

Franco was the taxi driver who picked me up in Constitucion - the worst subway stop in Buenos Aires. He told me I should never be there at night again and got a little dramatic about what could happen to me there. The house I found on Craigslist is beautiful, dates from the 1800's with italian tile and marble in the entrance and high ceilings and doors with windows and old school locks. It's

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7523060037492186104.post-83821016488955379702007-02-17T01:13:00.000-08:002007-04-15T16:53:19.801-07:00

I'm close to breaking out of NYC winter for a minute and trying myself out in Argentina. It's been a long time since I was a traveler. Now I'm the broke back girl who can't carry anything up the mountain. How will I climb Machu Pichu with gear? It's hard to leave New York as I'm an NYC junkie now, official. So that's a good reason to go and face the fears, try the new, smell the boys. Buenos

Eve Ciudadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02112887942278518777noreply@blogger.com0